Heart Rate Monitor Circuit Diagram

Strictly speaking, this simple circuit shouldn't work! How could anyone expect an ordinary light dependent resistor photo cell to 'see' through a fingertip in natural daylight and detect the change in blood flow as the heart pulsates? The secret is a high gain circuit, based on a dual op amp IC which can be either the low power LM358 or the JFET TL072. The LDR is connected in series across the 9V battery supply via a 100kO resistor (R1) and the minute signal caused by the blood pulsing under the skin is fed to the non-inverting (+) input, pin 3, of IC1a via a 0.µF capacitor.

Pin 3 is biased by a high impedance voltage divider consisting of two 3.3MO resistors. The feedback resistors to pin 2 set the gain to 11 times. The output of IC1a is fed via a 0.47µF capacitor and 220kO resistor to IC1b. This is configured as an inverting op amp with a gain of 45 so that the total circuit gain is about 500. The output of IC1b is used to drive an analog meter which may be a multimeter set to the 10V DC range or any panel meter in series with a resistor to limit the current to less than its full-scale deflection. The prototype used an old VU meter with a 47kO resistor fitted in series.

Heart Rate Monitor Circuit Diagram

Note that the unit was designed to use the Dick Smith Electronics light dependent resistor (Z-4801). Other LDRs may require a change in the value of resistor R1. A light source such as a high brightness LED is not required. All that is needed is a reasonably well-lit room, preferably natural daylight, to produce a healthy swing of the needle. Only when the hands are very cold does it make it a little more difficult to accurately count the pulses. To check your heart rate, carefully position your thumb or finger over the LDR and count the meter fluctuations for a period of 15 seconds. Then multiply the result by four to obtain your pulse rate. The circuit can not be used if you are walking or running, etc.

Author: Tony Lee - Copyright: Silicon Chip Electronics Magazine

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Whistling Kettle Circuit Diagram

Most electric kettles do not produce a whistle and just switch off when they have boiled. Fitting a box of electronics directly onto an electric kettle (or even inside!) to detect when the kettle has boiled is obviously out of the question. The circuit shown here detects when the kettle switches off, which virtually all kettles do when the water has boiled. In this way, the electronics can be housed in a separate box so that no modification is required to the kettle. The box is prefer-ably a type incorporating a mains plug and socket. 

In this application, the current flowing in coil L1 provides a magnetic field that actuates reed switch S1. Since the current drawn by the kettle element is relatively large (typically 6 to 8 amps), the coil may consist of a few turns of wire around the reed switch. The reed switch is so fast it will actually follow the AC current flow through L1 and produce a 100-Hz buzz. The switching circuit driven by the reed switch must, therefore, disregard these short periods when the contacts open, and respond only when they remain open for a relatively long period when the kettle has switched off. 

Circuit diagram :

Whistling Kettle Circuit Diagram

 

The circuit is based on a simple voltage controlled oscillator formed around T2 and T3. Its operation is best understood by considering the circuit with junction R4/R5 at 0 V and C4 discharged. T2 will receive base current through R5 and turn on, causing T3 to turn on as well. The falling collector voltage of T3 is transmitted to the base of T2 by C4 causing this transistor to conduct harder. Since the action is regenerative, both transistors will turn on quickly and con-duct heavily. C4 will therefore charge quickly through T2’s base-emitter junction and T3. Once the voltage across C4 exceeds about 8.5 V (leaving less than 0.5 V across T2’s b-e junction), T2 will begin to turn off. This action is also regenerative so that soon both transistors are switched off and the collector volt-age of T3 rises rapidly to +9 V. With C4 still charged to 8.5 V, the base of T2 will rise to about 17.5 V holding T2 (and thus T3) off. C4 will now discharge relatively slowly via R5 until T2 again begins to conduct whereupon the cycle will repeat. The voltage at the collector of T3 will therefore be a series of short negative going pulses whose basic frequency will depend on the value of C4 and R5. The pulses will be reproduced in the piezo sounder as a tone. 

The oscillation frequency of the regenerative circuit is heavily dependent on the voltage at junction R4/R5. As this voltage increases, the frequency will fall until a point is reached when the oscillation stops altogether. With this in mind, the operation of the circuit around T1 can be considered. In the standby condition, when the kettle is off, S1 will be open so that C1 and C2 will be discharged and T1 will remain off so that the circuit will draw no current. When the kettle is switched on, S1 is closed, causing C1 and C2 to be discharged and T1 will remain off. C3 will remain discharged so that T2 and T3 will be off and only a small current will be drawn by R1. Although S1 will open periodically (at 100 Hz), the time constant of R1/C1 is such that C1 will have essentially no voltage on it as the S1 contacts continue to close. 

When the kettle switches off, S1 will be permanently open and C1/C2 will begin to charge via R1, causing T1 to switch on. C3 will then begin to charge via R4 and the falling voltage at junction R4/R5 will cause T2/T3 to start oscillating with a rising frequency. However, once T1 has switched off, C3 will no longer be charged via R4 and will begin to discharge via R3 and R5 causing the voltage at R4/R5 to rise again. The result is a falling frequency until the oscillator switches off, returning the circuit to its original condition. As well as reducing the current drawn by the circuit to zero, this mimics the action of a conventional whistling kettle, where the frequency rises as more steam is produced and then falls when it is taken off the boil. 

The circuit is powered directly by the mains using a ‘lossless’ capacitive mains dropper, C6, and zener a diode, D2, to provide a nominal 8 V dc supply for the circuit.  A 1-inch reed switch used in the prototype required about 9 turns of wire to operate with a 2-kW kettle element. Larger switches or lower current may require more turns. In general, the more turns you can fit on the reed switch, the better, but do remember that the wire has to be thick enough to carry the current. It is strongly recommended to test the circuit using a 9-volt battery instead of the mains-derived supply voltage shown in the circuit diagram. A magnet may be used to operate S1 and so simulate the switching of the kettle. 

Warning. This circuit is connected directly to the 230-V mains and none of the components must be touched when the circuit is in use. The circuit must be housed in an approved ABS case and carry the earth connection to the load as indicated. Connections and solder joints to components with a voltage greater than 200 volts across them (ac or dc) must have an insulating clearance of least 6 mm. An X2 class capacitor must be used in position C6.

Author :Bart Trepak

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UV Torch Light Circuit Diagram

UV (ultra-violet) LEDs can produce eye-catching effects when their light is allowed to interfere with certain colours, particularly with reflected light under near-dark conditions. Also try shining some UV light on a diamond.

Circuit diagram :

 UV Torch Light Circuit Diagram

Most UV LEDs require about 3.6 V (the ‘blue’ diode voltage) to light. Here, a MAX761 step-up switching IC is used to provide constant current to bias the UV diode. The IC employs PWM in high-cur-rent mode and automatically changes to PFM mode in low or medium power mode to save (battery) power. To allow it to be used with two AA cells, the MAX761 is configured in bootstrapped mode with voltage-adjustable feedback. Up to four cells may be used to power the circuit but they may add more weight than you would like for a torchlight. 

To prolong the switch life, R1 is connected to the IC’s SHDN (shutdown) pin. Less than 50 nA will be measured in shutdown mode. Electrolytic capacitor C1 is used to decouple the circuit supply voltage. With-out it, ripple and noise may cause instability. The one inductor in the circuit, L1, may have any value between about 10 and 50 µH. It stores current in its magnetic field while the MOSFET inside the MAX761 is switched. A toroid inductor is preferred in this position as it will guarantee low stray radiation. D1 has to be a relatively fast diode so don’t be tempted to use an 1N400x because it has a too slow recovery time.

The circuit efficiency was measured at about 70%. R2, the resistor on the feed-back pin of the MAX761 effectively determines the amount of constant current, I, sent through the UV LEDs, as follows: R2 = 1.5 / I

where I will be between 2 mA and 35 mA. 

Zener diode D4 clamps the output voltage when the load is disconnected, which may happen when one of the UV LEDs breaks down. Without a load, the MAX761 will switch L1 right up to the boost voltage and so destroy itself.

Author : Myo Min

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Steam Whistle Circuit Diagram

This circuit consists of six square wave oscillators. Square waves are made up of a large number of harmonics. If six square waves with different frequencies are added together, the result will be a signal with a very large number of frequencies. When you listen to the result you’ll find that it is very similar to a steam whistle. The circuit should be useful in modelling or even in a sound studio.
 

Steam Whistle Circuit Diagram
:

Simple Steam Whistle Circuit Diagram

This circuit uses only two ICs. The first IC, a 40106, contains six Schmitt triggers, which are all configured as oscillators. Different frequencies are generated by the use of different feedback resistors. The output signals from the Schmitt triggers are mixed via resistors. The resulting signal is amplified by IC2, an LM386. This IC can deliver about 1 W of audio power, which should be sufficient for most applications. If you leave out R13 and all components after P1, the output can then be connected to a more powerful amplifier. In this way a truly deafening steam whistle can be created. The ‘frequency’ of the signal can be adjusted with P2, and P1 controls the volume.

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Intelligent Electronic Lock Circuit Diagram

This intelligent electronic lock circuit is built using transistors only. To open this electronic lock, one has to press tactile switches S1 through S4 sequentially. For deception you may annotate these switches with different numbers on the control panel/keypad. For example, if you want to use ten switches on the keypad marked ‘0’ through ‘9’, use any four arbitrary numbers out of these for switches S1 through S4, and the remaining six numbers may be annotated on the leftover six switches, which may be wired in parallel to disable switch S6 (shown in the figure). When four password digits in ‘0’ through ‘9’ are mixed with the remaining six digits connected across disable switch terminals, energisation of relay RL1 by unauthorised person is prevented.

Intelligent Electronic Lock Circuit Diagram

For authorised persons, a 4-digit password number is easy to remember. To energise relay RL1, one has to press switches S1 through S4 sequentially within six seconds, making sure that each of the switch is kept depressed for a duration of 0.75 second to 1.25 seconds. The relay will not operate if ‘on’ time duration of each tactile switch (S1 through S4) is less than 0.75 second or more than 1.25 seconds. This would amount to rejection of the code. A special feature of this circuit is that pressing of any switch wired across disable switch (S6) will lead to disabling of the whole electronic lock circuit for about one minute.

Even if one enters the correct 4-digit password number within one minute after a ‘disable’ operation, relay RL1 won’t get energised. So if any unauthorised person keeps trying different permutations of numbers in quick successions for energisation of relay RL1, he is not likely to succeed. To that extent, this electronic lock circuit is fool-proof. This electronic lock circuit comprises disabling, sequential switching, and relay latch-up sections. The disabling section comprises zener diode ZD5 and transistors T1 and T2. Its function is to cut off positive supply to sequential switching and relay latch-up sections for one minute when disable switch S6 (or any other switch shunted across its terminal) is momentarily pressed.

During idle state, capacitor C1 is in discharged condition and the voltage across it is less than 4.7 volts. Thus zener diode ZD5 and transistor T1 are in non-conduction state. As a result, the collector voltage of transistor T1 is sufficiently high to forward bias transistor T2. Consequently, +12V is extended to sequential switching and relay latch-up sections. When disable switch is momentarily depressed, capacitor C1 charges up through resistor R1 and the voltage available across C1 becomes greater than 4.7 volts. Thus zener diode ZD5 and transistor T1 start conducting and the collector voltage of transistor T1 is pulled low. As a result, transistor T2 stops conducting and thus cuts off positive supply voltage to sequential switching and relay latch-up sections.

Thereafter, capacitor C1 starts discharging slowly through zener diode D1 and transistor T1. It takes approximately one minute to discharge to a sufficiently low level to cut-off transistor T1, and switch on transistor T2, for resuming supply to sequential switching and relay latch-up sections; and until then the circuit does not accept any code. The sequential switching section comprises transistors T3 through T5, zener diodes ZD1 through ZD3, tactile switches S1 through S4, and timing capacitors C2 through C4. In this three-stage electronic switch, the three transistors are connected in series to extend positive voltage available at the emitter of transistor T2 to the relay latch-up circuit for energising relay RL1.

When tactile switches S1 through S3 are activated, timing capacitors C2, C3, and C4 are charged through resistors R3, R5, and R7, respectively. Timing capacitor C2 is discharged through resistor R4, zener diode ZD1, and transistor T3; timing capacitor C3 through resistor R6, zener diode ZD2, and transistor T4; and timing capacitor C4 through zener diode ZD3 and transistor T5 only. The individual timing capacitors are chosen in such a way that the time taken to discharge capacitor C2 below 4.7 volts is 6 seconds, 3 seconds for C3, and 1.5 seconds for C4. Thus while activating tactile switches S1 through S3 sequentially, transistor T3 will be in conduction for 6 seconds, transistor T4 for 3 seconds, and transistor T5 for 1.5 seconds.

The positive voltage from the emitter of transistor T2 is extended to tactile switch S4 only for 1.5 seconds. Thus one has to activate S4 tactile switch within 1.5 seconds to energise relay RL1. The minimum time required to keep switch S4 depressed is around 1 second. For sequential switching transistors T3 through T5, the minimum time for which the corresponding switches (S1 through S3) are to be kept depressed is 0.75 seconds to 1.25 seconds. If one operates these switches for less than 0.75 seconds, timing capacitors C2 through C4 may not get charged sufficiently. As a consequence, these capacitors will discharge earlier and any one of transistors T3 through T5 may fail to conduct before activating tactile switch S4.

Thus sequential switching of the three transistors will not be achieved and hence it will not be possible to energise relay RL1 in such a situation. A similar situation arises if one keeps each of the mentioned tactile switches de-pressed for more than 1.5 seconds. When the total time taken to activate switches S1 through S4 is greater than six seconds, transistor T3 stops conducting due to time lapse. Sequential switching is thus not achieved and it is not possible to energise relay RL1. The latch-up relay circuit is built around transistors T6 through T8, zener diode ZD4, and capacitor C5. In idle state, with relay RL1 in de-energised condition, capacitor C5 is in discharged condition and zener diode ZD4 and transistors T7, T8, and T6 in non-conduction state.

However, on correct operation of sequential switches S1 through S4, capacitor C5 is charged through resistor R9 and the voltage across it rises above 4.7 volts. Now zener diode ZD4 as well as transistors T7, T8, and T6 start conducting and relay RL1 is energised. Due to conduction of transistor T6, capacitor C5 remains in charged condition and the relay is in continuously energised condition. Now if you activate reset switch S5 momentarily, capacitor C5 is immediately discharged through resistor R8 and the voltage across it falls below 4.7 volts. Thus zener diode ZD4 and transistors T7, T8, and T6 stop conducting again and relay RL1 de-energises. 

Sourced by : Extreamcircuits

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Quiz Circuit Diagram

I've had a few requests for a quiz circuit, so here is a 4 input design which can easily be modified. Maybe, I should write the application notes in the style of a game show host...

Circuit diagram

Notes:
This design uses four IC's and has four input circuits and four independent outputs and a single master reset switch. The outputs here are LED's but may be modified to drive lamps or buzzers. Only one output LED can be lit at any time. The first person to press their input switch, A,B,C,D will light the corresponding output LED, disabling the other inputs.

The circuit uses all CMOS IC's part numbers shown on the diagram. The supply voltage may be anything between 3 and 15 volts. Alternatively, it may be built using equivalent TTL IC's and powered on 5 volts. The main component in this circuit is a bistable latch, here it is based on the dual 4013 D-type flip flop.

Circuit Operation:
Pressing the reset switch will clear all flip flops and extinguish any lit LED's. Under this condition the Q outputs will all be low (logic 0) and NOT Q outputs will be high (logic 1). All four NOT Q outputs are fed to a 4 input AND gate, the 4082 whose output will also be high. The output of the 4082 is wired to one input of each 2 input AND gate (4081). Switch inputs A,B,C,D are all non latching push button switches, the first person to press their switch will cause the corresponding AND gate (4081) to go high and trigger the preset input of the 4013 D-type flip flop.

This will latch and light the appropriate LED. Also the triggered flip flop will have its NOT Q output, set at low, this changes the 4082 output to low and prevents any further triggering of the other flip flops. Switch contact de-bouncing is not required as the first press will latch one of the bistables. Pressing the reset switch, restores the circuit to its former state. I would recommend using heavy duty push button switches, as in use they are likely to be under some stress. 

Sourced by : link

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Digital Pulser Circuit Diagram

This is a Simple Digital logic Pulser Circuit Diagram. The logic pulser generates pulses at 500 Hz or 0.5 Hz. When the pulser`s.tip connects to an input that is already being driven high or low, the pulser senses thelogic state and automatically pulses the input briefly to the opposite state. 

Simple Digital Pulser Circuit Diagram

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Fridge Thermostat Circuit Diagram

What to do when the thermostat in your fridge doesn’t work any more? Get it repaired at (too) much expense or just buy a new one? It is relatively simple to make an electronic variation of a thermo-stat yourself, while saving a considerable amount of money at the same time. How-ever, be careful when working with mains voltages. This voltage remains invisible and can sometimes be fatal! 

This design allows for five temperatures to be selected with a rotary switch. By selecting suitable values for the resistors (R1 to R7), the temperatures at the various switch positions can be defined at construction time. With the resistance values shown here, the temperature can be adjusted to 16, 6, 4, 2 and –22 °C. 16° C is an ideal temperature for the storage of wine, while 6, 4, and 2 degrees are interesting for beer connoisseurs and the minus 22°degrees position transforms the fridge into a large freezer. Note for wine connoisseurs: to prevent mould on the labels, it is necessary to place a moisture absorber or bag of silica gel in the fridge. 

Fridge Thermostat Circuit diagram :

Fridge Thermostat Circuit Diagram

The circuit is built around an old work-horse among opamps, the 741. D1 pro-vides a stable reference voltage of 5 V across the entire resistor divider. P1 allows adjustment of the voltage at the node of R1 and R2. To use the above-mentioned temperatures as setpoints this voltage needs to be adjusted to 2.89 V. D2 is a precision temperature sensor, which can be used from –40 to +100 °C. The voltage across this diode varies by 10 mV per Kelvin. In this way D2 keeps an eye on the temperature in the fridge. The reference voltage derived from the voltage divider (selected with S1) is com-pared by IC1 with the voltage across the temperature sensor. Based on this, the 741 switches, via the zero voltage crossing driver (IC2), a triac that provides volt-age to the compressor motor. The zero voltage crossing IC switches only at the zero crossings of the mains voltage, so that interference from the compressor motor is avoided when turning on. 

The power supply for the circuit is pro-vided by a simple bridge rectifier and filtered with two electrolytic capacitors of 220 µF each. 

The design can also be used for countless other uses. You can, for example, make a thermostat for heating by swapping the inputs of the opamp.

Keep in mind the safety requirements when building and mounting the circuit.

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Remote Control Blocker Circuit Diagram

This circuit was designed to block signals from infrared remote controls. This will prove very useful if your children have the tendency to switch channels all the time. It is also effective when your children aren’t permitted to watch TV as a punishment. Putting the TV on standby and put-ting the remote control out of action can be enough in this case. 

Remote Control Blocker Circuit diagram :

Remote Control Blocker Circuit Diagram

The way in which we do this is very straightforward. Two IR LEDs continuously transmit infrared light with a frequency that can be set between 32 and 41 kHz. Most remote controls work at a frequency of 36 kHz or 38 kHz. 

The disruption of the remote control occurs as follows. The ‘automatic gain’ of the IR receiver in TVs, CD players, home cinema systems, etc. reduces the gain of the receiver due to the strong signal from the IR LEDs. Any IR signals from a remote control are then too weak to be detected by the receiver. Hence the equipment no longer ‘sees’ the remote control! 

 

The oscillator is built around a standard NE555. This drives a buffer stage, which provides the current to the two LEDs. Setting up this circuit is very easy. Point the IR LEDs towards the device that needs its remote control blocked. Then pick up the remote control and try it out. If it still functions you should adjust the frequency of the circuit until the remote control stops working.

This circuit is obviously only effective against remote controls that use IR light!

Author : Paul Goossens - Copyright : Elektor

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Electronic Watering Can Circuit Diagram

Summertime is holiday time but who will be looking after your delicate houseplants while you are away? Caring for plants is very often a hit or miss affair, sometimes you under-water and other times you over-water. This design seeks to remove the doubt from plant care and keep them optimally watered. 

The principle of the circuit is simple: first the soil dampness is measured by passing a signal through two electrodes placed in the soil. The moisture content is inversely proportional to the measured resistance. When this measurement indicates it is too dry, the plants are given a predefined dose of water. This last part is important for the correct function of the automatic watering can because it takes a little while for the soil to absorb the water dose and for its resistance to fall. If the water were allowed to flow until the soil resistance drops then the plant would soon be flooded. 

An Electronic Watering Can Circuit diagram :

An Electronic Watering Can Circuit Diagram

The circuit shows two 555 timer chips IC1 and IC2. IC1 is an astable multivibrator producing an ac coupled square wave at around 500 Hz for the measurement electrodes F and F1. An ac signal reduces electrode corrosion and also has less reaction with the growth-promoting chemistry of the plant. Current flowing between the electrodes produces a signal on resistor R13. The signal level is boosted and rectified by the voltage doubler produced by D2 and D3. When the voltage level on R13 is greater than round 1.5 V to 2.0 V transistor T2 will conduct and switch T3. Current flow through the soil is in the order of 10 µA. 

T2 and T3 remain conducting providing the soil is moist enough. The voltage level on pin 4 of IC2 will be zero and IC2 will be disabled. As the soil dries out the signal across R13 gets smaller until eventually T2 stops conducting and T3 is switched off. The voltage on pin 4 of IC2 rises to a ‘1’ and the chip is enabled. IC2 oscillates with an ‘on’ time of around 5 s and an ‘off’ time (adjustable via P2) of 10 to 20 s. This signal switches the water pump via T1. P1 allows adjustment of the minimum soil moisture content necessary before watering is triggered. 

The electrodes can be made from lengths of 1.5 mm2 solid copper wire with the insulation stripped off the last 1 cm. The electrodes should be pushed into the earth so that the tips are at roughly the same depth as the plant root ball. The distant between the electrodes is not critical; a few centimetres should be sufficient. The electrode tips can be tinned with solder to reduce any biological reaction with the copper surface. Stainless steel wire is a better alternative to copper, heat shrink sleeving can used to insulate the wire with the last 1 cm of the electrode left bare. Two additional electrodes (F1) are con nected in parallel to the soil probe electrodes (F). The F1 electrodes are for safety to ensure that the pump is turned off if for some reason water collects in the plant pot saucer. A second safety measure is a float switch fitted to the water reservoir tank. 

When the water level falls too low a floating magnet activates a reed switch and turns off the pump so that it is not damaged by running with a dry tank. Water to the plants can be routed through closed end plastic tubing (with an internal diameter of around 4 to 5 mm) to the plant pots. The number of 1 mm to 1.5 mm outlet holes in the pipe will control the dose of water supplied to each plant. The soil probes can only be inserted into one flowerpot so choose a plant with around average water consumption amongst your collection. Increasing or decreasing the number of holes in the water supply pipe will adjust water supply to the other plants depending on their needs. A 12 V water pump is a good choice for this application but if you use a mains driven pump it is essential to observe all the necessary safety precautions. 

Last but not least the electronic watering can is too good to be used just for holiday periods, it will ensure that your plants never suffer from the blight of over or under-watering again; provided of course you remember to keep the water reservoir topped up…

Author : Robert Edlinger

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How to Make an AVR Perform Multiple Tasks

This article describes a way to create an AVR perform multiple tasks. Beginners who want to urge an in-depth information in AVR assemble language programming will seek this project. The assembly language helps to utilize all the functions and capabilities of the processor. browse on to grasp a lot of.

The most vital and major functionality of an operating system is performing multiple tasks on the CPU. what's being done here is time sharing multitasking which too on an AVR. An Atmega32 is ready up to perform Round-Robin Multitasking. Quasi-parallel execution of multiple tasks is feasible through Round-Robin Multitasking. The tasks are time-sliced and don't seem to be tired parallel.

The project demonstrates how the switching mechanism is finished between seven individual tasks. The RAM is split between the amount of processes that are running. A timer is employed here and a trigger is executed when it reaches a compare worth. the required registers are pushed onto the stack.

Now comes the method of switching between the varied tasks. A backup of the present stack pointer is needed as this helps to spot the previous task that was being executed. concerning fifty bytes of memory is formed offered to store the task index. this is often the stack pointer backup table.

Now suppose, task one is interrupted by the timer, the CPU registers and also the standing registers are pushed. The task index is checked at this time and also the stack pointer of future task is currently obtained. currently this task starts executing and this continues for a number of microseconds till it's interrupted. This cycle continues and this provides an effect that every one tasks are being performed parallely.

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Low cost Bicycle Alarm Circuit Diagram

The author wanted a very low cost and simple alarm for some of his possessions, such as his electrically assisted bicycle. This alarm is based on a cheap window alarm, which has a time-switch added to it with a 1-minute time-out. The output  pulse of the 555 replaces the reed switch in the window alarm. The 555 is triggered by a sensor mounted near the front  wheel, in combination with a magnet that is mounted on the spokes. This sensor and the magnet were taken from a cheap bicycle computer. 

Low cost Bicycle Alarm Circuit Diagram

Cheap Bicycle Alarm Circuit Diagram

The front wheel of the bicycle is kept unlocked, so that the reed  switch closes momentarily when the wheel turns. This  triggers the 555, which in turn activates the window alarm. The circuit around the 555 takes very little current and can  be powered by the batteries in the window alarm.  There  is just enough room  left inside the enclosure of the window  alarm to mount the time-switch inside it. 

The result is a very cheap, compact device, with only a single cable going to the reed switch on the front wheel. And the noise this thing produces is just unbelievable! After about one minute the noise stops and the alarm goes back into standby mode. The bicycle alarm should be mounted in an inconspicuous place, such as underneath the saddle, inside a (large) front light, in the battery compartment, etc.

Hopefully the alarm scares any potential thief away, or at least it makes other members of the public aware that something isn't quite right. 

Caution. The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

Author : Gerard Seuren

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Geiger Counter Uses Cockroft-Walton Multiplier

The recent tsunami in Japan and the on-going calamity with the Fukushima nuclear power plant has apparently greatly increased sales of radiation meters, not only in Japan but elsewhere around the world. This device will allow an estimation of the level of radioactivity, being sensitive enough for background radiation monitoring or to provide an estimation of the level of radioactivity from sample objects such as Thorium gas mantles in LPG lamps. The circuit is compatible with several Geiger Muller tubes and three types of indication are provided: the good old-fashioned audible click with each discharge, a flashing LED or an analog meter providing a rough average of radiation levels.




A normal background count in New Zealand with the smaller GM LND712 tube is around 30 counts per minute, while the larger and more-sensitive LND7312 pancake tube will count about four times this figure. Both GM tubes will detect alpha, beta and gamma radiation. Unless the tube is “filtered”, there is no way of knowing just what type of radiation is being detected, although a rough guess can be made. Alpha particles will be stopped by placing a sheet of paper between the tube and the source, Beta particles (electrons) will be stopped with a few layers of aluminium foil and the more lively Gamma rays will need a layer of lead.

The circuit provides a regulated 500V supply for the Geiger Muller tube. This voltage places the tube into its linear operating mode so that a discharge inside the tube will occur when a particle enters through the mica window of the tube and causes the gas to ionise. The very short pulse produced is stretched and used to signal that a discharge has occurred. The power supply consists of an oscillator and small transistor driving the 6V secondary of a 240VAC mains transformer. The stepped up output of the transformer is fed to a Cockroft-Walton voltage multiplier consisting of diodes D3-D7 and the associated 47nF 630V metallised polyester capacitors.

IC1 is a 40106 Schmitt trigger inverter and IC1a is connected as an oscillator running at several hundred hertz. This is buffered by IC1b and fed to the base of NPN transistor Q1 which then drives the abovementioned transformer. IC1c acts as an error amplifier to regulate the high voltage fed to the GM tube. A portion of the DC voltage produced at the junction of diodes D4 & D5 is monitored by a voltage divider consisting of the 4.7MO and 47kO resistors, in combination with trimpot VR1. When the voltage from D5 is below the positive threshold of IC1c, its output will be high and IC1a will be able to oscillate. Hence, the oscillator will pulse on and off, to maintain the 500V set by VR1.

Each time there is a discharge in the GM tube, the resultant current triggers the BT149 SCR which discharges the associated 100nF capacitor and thereby acts as a pulse stretcher to drive the three remaining inverters in IC1. These in turn drive a high-brightness red LED (LED1), a piezo transducer and an analog metering circuit which is based on an old VU meter movement with a scale graduated in counts/minute. The current drain of the circuit is 10mA and a small 9V battery should run the counter for many hours. Warning: do not touch the window of the GM tube. These are very fragile and made of very thin mica, to allow the low-energy alpha particles to pass through. With the LND 712, 200 counts per minute is roughly equivalent to 0.3 micro-seiverts.

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Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator

This is a small, portable set, designed for those aiming at look improvement. The Bio-Stimulator provides muscles' stimulation and invigoration but, mainly, it could be an aid in removing cellulite. Tape the electrodes to the skin at both ends of the chosen muscle and rotate P1 knob slowly until a light itch sensation is perceived. Each session should last about 30 - 40 minutes. 

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator Circuit diagram :

Portable Muscular Bio-Stimulator Circuit Diagram

C1 generates 150µSec. pulses at about 80Hz frequency. Q1 acts as a buffer and Q2 inverts the polarity of the pulses and drives the Transformer. The amplitude of the output pulses is set by P1 and approximately displayed by the brightness of LED D1. D2 protects Q2 against high voltage peaks generated by T1 inductance during switching.

Parts :

• P1-----4K7 Linear Potentiometer
• R1-----180K   1/4W Resistor
• R2-----1K8  1/4W Resistor (see Notes)
• R3-----2K2  1/4W Resistor
• R4-----100R   1/4W Resistor
• C1-----100nF  63V Polyester Capacitor
• C2-----100µF  25V Electrolytic Capacitor
• D1-----LED  Red 5mm.
• D2-----1N4007  1000V 1A Diode
• Q1,Q2-----BC327  45V 800mA PNP Transistors
• IC1-----7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
• T1-----220V Primary, 12V Secondary 1.2VA Mains transformer (see Notes)
• SW1-----SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)
• B1-----3V Battery (two 1.5V AA or AAA cells in series etc.)

Notes :

• T1 is a small mains transformer 220 to 12V @ 100 or 150mA. It must be reverse connected i.e. the 12V secondary winding across Q2 Collector and negative ground, and the 220V primary winding to output electrodes.
• Output voltage is about 60V positive and 150V negative but output current is so small that there is no electric-shock danger.
• In any case P1 should be operated by the "patient", starting with the knob fully counter-clockwise, then rotating it slowly clockwise until the LED starts to illuminate. Stop rotating the knob when a light itch sensation is perceived.
  Best knob position is usually near the center of its range.
• In some cases a greater pulse duration can be more effective in cellulite treatment. Try changing R2 to 5K6 or 10K maximum: stronger pulses will be easily perceived and the LED will shine more brightly.
• Electrodes can be obtained by small metal plates connected to the output of the circuit via usual electric wire and can be taped to the skin. In some cases, moistening them with little water has proven useful.
• SW1 should be ganged to P1 to avoid abrupt voltage peaks on the "patient's" body at switch-on, but a stand alone SPST switch will work quite well, provided you remember to set P1 knob fully counter-clockwise at switch-on.
• Current drawing of this circuit is about 1mA @ 3V DC.
• Some commercial sets have four, six or eight output electrodes. To obtain this you can retain the part of the circuit comprising IC1, R1, R2, C1, C2, SW1 and B1. Other parts in the diagram (i.e. P1, R3, R4, D1, D2, Q2 & T1) can be doubled, trebled or quadrupled. Added potentiometers and R3 series resistors must be wired in parallel and all connected across Emitter of Q1 and positive supply.
• Commercial sets have frequently a built-in 30 minutes timer. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this Website, adjusting the timing components to suit your needs.

Disclaimer: we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device.

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Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit Diagram

This circuit measures the distance covered during a walk. Hardware is located in a small box slipped in pants' pocket and the display is conceived in the following manner: the leftmost display D2 (the most significant digit) shows 0 to 9 Km. and its dot is always on to separate Km. from hm. The rightmost display D1 (the least significant digit) shows hundreds meters and its dot illuminates after every 50 meters of walking. A beeper (excludable), signals each count unit, occurring every two steps. A normal step was calculated to span around 78 centimeters, thus the LED signaling 50 meters illuminates after 64 steps (or 32 operations of the mercury switch), the display indicates 100 meters after 128 steps and so on.

For low battery consumption the display illuminates only on request, pushing on P2. Accidental reset of the counters is avoided because to reset the circuit both pushbuttons must be operated together. Obviously, this is not a precision meter, but its approximation degree was found good for this kind of device. In any case, the most critical thing to do is the correct placement of the mercury switch inside of the box and the setting of its sloping degree.

Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit diagram:

Digital Step-Km Counter Circuit Diagram

Parts:
R1 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R2 = 2.2M 1/4W Resistor
R3 = 22K 1/4W Resistor
R4 = 1M 1/4W Resistor
R5 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R6 = 47R 1/4W Resistor
R7 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R8 = 4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R9 = 1K 1/4W Resistor
C1 = 47nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2 = 100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3 = 10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C4 = 10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Hundreds meters)
D2 = Common-cathode 7-segment LED mini-display (Kilometers)
Q1 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
Q2 = BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors
P1 = SPST Pushbutton (Reset)
P2 = SPST Pushbutton (Display)
IC1 = 4093 Quad 2 input Schmitt NAND Gate IC
IC2 = 4024 7 stage ripple counter IC
IC3 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
IC4 = 4026 Decade counter with decoded 7-segment display outputs IC
SW1 = SPST Mercury Switch, called also Tilt Switch
SW2 = SPST Slider Switch (Sound on-off)
SW3 = SPST Slider Switch (Power on-off)
BZ = Piezo sounder
B1 = 3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

Circuit operation:

IC 1A & IC 1B form a monostable multi vibrator providing some degree of freedom from excessive bouncing of the mercury switch. Therefore a clean square pulse enters IC2 that divides by 64. Q2 drives the LED dot-segment of D1 every 32 pulses counted by IC2. Either IC3 & IC4 divide by 10 and drive the displays. P1 resets the counters and P2 enables the displays. IC1C generates an audio frequency square wave that is enabled for a short time at each monostable count. Q1 drives the piezo sounder and SW2 allows disabling the beep.

Notes:

• Experiment with placement and sloping degree of mercury switch inside the box: this is very critical.
• Try to obtain a pulse every two walking steps. Listening to the beeper is extremely useful during setup.
• Trim R6 value to change beeper sound power.
• Push P1 and P2 to reset.
• This circuit is primarily intended for walking purposes. For jogging, further great care must be used with mercury switch placement to avoid undesired counts.
• When the display is disabled current consumption is negligible, therefore SW3 can be omitted.

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Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit Diagram

This is the Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit Diagram. An ELT (Emergency Locator Transmitter, also known as a distress beacon) is an emergency radio transmitter that is activated either manually or automatically by a crash sensor to aid the detection and location of aircraft in distress. This acoustic ELT project is intended for radio control (RC) model aircraft, which every now and then decide to go their own way and disappear into the undergrowth. 

Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit diagram :

 

Acoustic Distress Beacon Circuit Diagram

The audio locating device described here enables model aircraft that have landed ‘off limits’ to be found again and employs its own independent power supply. The small cam-era battery shown in the circuit activates an acoustic sounder when radio contact is lost and produces a short signal tone (bleep) every ten seconds for more than 25 hours. Current consumption in standby and passive (with jumper J1 set) modes is negligible. The timing generator for the alarm tone is the Schmitt trigger AND-gate IC1.B; its asymmetric duty cycle drives a 5 V DC sounder via MOSFET transistor T1. All the time that the RC receiver output is delivering positive pulses, the oscillator is blocked by IC1.A and diode D1. Setting jumper J1 parallel to C2 also disables the oscillator and serves to ‘disarm’ the distress beacon.

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Cranial Electrotherapy Stimulator Circuit Diagram

Current generated flows through clips placed on the earlobes Output current adjustable from 80 to 600 microAmperes

Owing to the recent launching in Europe of Cranial Electrotherapy Stimulation (CES) portable sets, we have been "Electronically Stimulated" in designing a similar circuit for the sake of hobbyists. CES is the most popular technique for electrically boosting brain power, and has long been prescribed by doctors, mainly in the USA, for therapeutic reasons, including the treatment of anxiety, depression, insomnia, and chemical dependency. CES units generate an adjustable current (80 to 600 microAmperes) that flows through clips placed on the earlobes. 

The waveform of this device is a 400 milliseconds positive pulse followed by a negative one of the same duration, then a pause of 1.2 seconds. The main frequency is 0.5 Hz, i.e. a double pulse every 2 seconds. Some people report that this kind of minute specialized electrical impulses contributes to achieve a relaxed state that leaves the mind alert. Obviously we can't claim or prove any therapeutic effectiveness for this device, but if you are interested in trying it, the circuit is so cheap and so simple to build that an attempt can be made with quite no harm.

Cranial Electrotherapy StimulatorCircuit diagram:

Parts:
R1___________1M5 1/4W Resistor
R2___________15K 1/4W Resistor
R3___________100K Linear Potentiometer
R4___________2K2 1/4W Resistor
C1___________330nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2___________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1___________3mm. Red LED
IC1___________7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC
IC2___________4017 Decade counter with 10 decoded outputs IC
SW1__________SPST Slider Switch
B1____________9V PP3 Battery Clip for PP3 Battery
Two Earclips with wires (see notes)

Circuit operation:

IC1 forms a narrow pulse, 2.5Hz oscillator feeding IC2. This chip generates the various timings for the output pulses. Output is taken at pins 2 & 3 to easily obtain negative going pulses also. Current output is limited to 600µA by R2 and can be regulated from 80 to 600µA by means of R3. The LED flashes every 2 seconds signaling proper operation and can also be used for setting purposes. It can be omitted together with R4, greatly increasing battery life.

Notes:

• In order to obtain a more precise frequency setting take R1=1M2 and add a 500K trimmer in series with it.
• In this case use a frequency meter to read 2.5Hz at pin 3 of IC1, or an oscilloscope to read 400msec pulses at pins 2, 3 or 10, adjusting the added trimmer.
• A simpler setting can be made adjusting the trimmer to count exactly a LED flash every 2 seconds.
• Earclips can be made with little plastic clips and cementing the end of the wire in a position suited to make good contact with earlobes.
• Ultra-simple earclips can be made using a thin copper foil with rounded corners 4 cm. long and 1.5 cm. wide, soldering the wire end in the center, and then folding the foil in two parts holding the earlobes.
• To ensure a better current transfer, this kind of devices usually has felt pads moistened with a conducting solution interposed between clips and skin.
• Commercial sets have frequently a built-in timer. Timing sessions last usually 20 minutes to 1 hour. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper the Bedside Lamp Timer or the Jogging Timer circuits available on this website, adjusting the timing components in order to suit your needs.

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